A review of The Steakhouse at Harrods
The bar and kitchen of The Steakhouse at Harrods.
The recently opened The Steakhouse at Harrods offers the most exceptional feast for steak lovers without the formality of sitting in a restaurant.
Situated on the ground floor of London’s best-known department store, which itself was founded in 1834 by Charles Henry Harrod, this small 1950s style diner has stool seating around a bar that also acts as the kitchen.
On arrival, diners are greeted by the most efficient and welcoming of hostesses, Laura Sturgess, and butcher Salvatore Dodaro, whose knowledge of meats is second to none.
The finest steaks imaginable on display at The Harrods Steakhouse.
From four refrigerated cabinets, Dodaro gives customers the opportunity to select steaks that include 21-day, dry-aged Aberdeen Angus and American Wagyu. Prices range from £10 per 100g for a bone-in sirloin to £15 per 100g for fillet. In introducing the range, this maestro clearly illustrated the passion for what he purveys.
The T-bone steak.
We opted to share a T-bone (priced at £10 per 100g) and an American Wagyu steak. Served with vine-roasted cherry tomatoes, both were frankly the best we’ve sampled at the many steak restaurants we’ve visited for Da Steeps Speaks this year. Cooked in front of our eyes in the tiny space behind the bar, the chefs place flags with rather fun cooking flags on each piece of meat and what they served was frankly glorious, especially tender and wonderfully flavourful.
The American Wagyu steak.
We tried both a superlative Roquefort butter sauce and a less exciting peppercorn offering (£2 each) but what really impressed as sides were the Macaroni cheese and the perfectly creamed spinach (£4.50 each). The fries triple-cooked in beef driping (also at £4.50) were the only real let down as these were not as tantalising in taste as we’d expected.
To finish, we concluded by sharing a crème brûlée and a piece of buttermilk chocolate cake (£7 each). The former certainly was impressive whilst I’d suggest that the management look into an alternative for the latter as it was perhaps a little on the dry side.
With Enomatic® wine machines, the entire list at The Harrods Steakhouse is available by both the glass and bottle. Starting at £8 for a 2010 Babera del Piemonte at £8 a glass or £22 a bottle, the list of reds rises through a 2009 Chianti Classico at £16 a glass or £42 a bottle to a 2007 Gevrey Chambertin Premier Cru at £43 a glass or £120 a bottle. The white offering is more limited but includes a 2009 Chablis Domaine Bernard Defaix at £15 a glass or £38 a bottle and pleasingly for beer lovers, The Steakhouse at Harrods also offers Meantime London Lager at £6 a pint.
That “modern-day Dorothy Parker” Fran Lebowitz once said: “My favourite animal is steak.” I’d have to add that: “My favourite steak of the year has to be that served at The Harrods Steakhouse.”
The Steakhouse at Harrods, 87 – 135 Brompton Road, London, SW1X 7XL: http://www.harrods.com/content/visiting-the-store/restaurants/the-steakhouse
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday: 11.30am to 8pm, Sunday: 12pm to 6pm.