Friday, 23 March 2012

Visually brilliant


A review of 5 Pollen Street

5 Pollen Street is an Italian restaurant where fine dining unites with fine art. Hidden in a side street off Hanover Square, this 60-cover restaurant is dominated by artwork by Royal Academician Gary Hume, a leading member of the Young British Artist (YBA) movement.

5 Pollen Street

Diego Bivero Volpe, a former RBS banker, is one of the brains behind the restaurant and with Massimo Tagliaferri, previously of The Grosvenor House, The Dorchester, Harry’s Bar, Gordon Ramsay at Claridges and Enoteca Turi, as head chef, the result is a sophisticated restaurant with a superbly balanced menu.

Diego Bivero Volpe

Ably managed by Francesca de Lorenzo, 5 Pollen Street’s ambience is formal yet buzzy. Hume’s artwork and graphic wallpapers sit well alongside wooden floors, comfortable banquette seating and large mirrors and the result is a room that is most pleasant to dine in.

The clientele, as a result of Bivero Volpe’s connections, centre upon fashionistas and the party set. A Google search on 5 Pollen Street brings up the names Chris Martin, Gwyneth Paltrow, Andrew Lloyd Webber, Gemma Arterton and Lana Del Rey as having dined there.

Massimo Tagliaferri

To begin, I opted for a colourful beetroot and ricotta ravioli with butter and poppy seeds (£12.50). Beetroot is indeed the vegetable of the moment and this particular dish, I must say, was superb. My companion’s choice of burrata of Putignano with Sicilian caponata (£9.50) was, he said, deliciously soft.

As a main I chose roasted breast of duck with covolo nero and peverada sauce (£23). The delicious chicken liver based sauce complemented the tender meat well and the accompanying roast potatoes (£4) were equally good. A pan-fried fillet of lemon sole with a fennel puree, mussels and tomato confit (£22.50) was the choice of my guest. He thoroughly enjoyed the mix of flavours.

To conclude we opted for a tiramisu (£6.50) and a Torrone semifreddo with a chocolate sauce (£7). Both were triumphant and perfect choices to end a truly excellent meal.

Like most Mayfair restaurants, wines err on the expensive side but the £25 a bottle Italian house white was crisp and enjoyable. A few more mid range offerings, however, certainly wouldn’t go amiss.

Follow Lana’s lead and make a beeline for 5 Pollen Street. You won’t be disappointed.

5 Pollen Street, London, W1S 1NE. Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7629 1555. Website: http://www.5pollenst.com

1 comment:

Roderick McKay said...

How do you stay thin, Mr Steeples?

I will try this restaurant with my wife soon as it sounds good.